Egypt September 2005
 
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Cairo - view from our hotel balcony

07/09/2005


No, not our hotel, unfortunately (the Explore Tour hotel was a bit of a flea trap!).  This is the 4 star Marriott, which was the only place we could find a cold beer in the afternoon.


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07/09/2005


Art on our balcony
07/09/2005


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Night falls on Cairo

07/09/2005


Giza Complex - The Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops)

09/09/2005 

The Great Pyramid of Khufu (Cheops), the largest in Egypt, located on the Giza Plateau just outside Cairo. Its name was "Khufu's Horizon."  Of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, Khufu's Pyramid is the first, and only survivor.

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Solar Boat Museum - original sailors rope
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This is the pit/tomb they found the boat in
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The two southern boat pits were discovered in 1954, during cleaning work, by the young Egyptian architect and archeologist Kamal el-Mallakh and inspector Zaki Nur. The eastern pit was covered by a roof of forty-one huge limestone slabs weighing between 17 and 20 tons each..

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Scale Model of Solar Boat

09/09/2005


The original Solar Boat
09/09/2005

The cedar boat now on display was originally dismantled into 1,224 individual parts. On top of the wood was a layer of mats and ropes, an instrument made of flint, and some small pieces of white plaster. The prow of the boat, a wooden column topped by a round wooden disk, was found at the western end of the pit. This column was connected to two long wooden pieces that extended along the bottom of the pit. Most of the wooden parts had been tied together with ropes. Also found inside the pit were many other items, such as twelve oars, each mad from a single piece of wood, fifty-eight poles, three cylindrical columns and five doors.

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09/09/2005

It is 43.3 meters (142 feet)  long and made of Lebanese cedar wood and some acacia. Its displacement was 45 tons. The maximum draft is 1.48 meters (5 feet). It is 5.9 meters wide. The separate parts of the boat had numerous U-shaped holes so that the boat could be 'stitched' together using ropes made of vegetable fibers. Interestingly many of the boats planks were marked with signs for prow, stern, port and starboard.

 

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Can't tell that I was a bit obsessed with this, took enough photos, eh?!
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No nails were used in the construction and the planking was assembled through an ingenious system of stitching through holes with ropes of vegetable fibres. When the wood was swollen by water the ropes would tighten and make the boat watertight.

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Pyramid of Khafre

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Because its apex is in better condition and it is located on an elevation (of about 10 meters), Khafre's sometimes appears to be the largest of the three great Pyramids of the Giza Plateau.  However, originally it was some three meters lower than its neighboring pyramid belonging to Khafre's father, Khufu.  In fact, the walls of Khafre's pyramid are steeper than the Great Pyramid of Khufu (53o 10' as opposed to Khufu's 51o 40'), so it contains considerably less mass. It's name is "Khafre is Great".

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Pyramid of Khafre

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Me trying to do an "Indiana Jones" moment, but my zoom wasn't good enough.


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Pyramid of Khafre
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The Pyramid of Khufu

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The original descending entrance corridor, surmounted by a double vault and offset by 7.29 meters (24 feet) east from the centre axis about 16.76 meters (55 feet) high on the level of the thirteenth pier.

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The Pyramid of Khufu

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One of the subsidiary pyramids for the great wives

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Pyramid of Khafre

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Giza Complex


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Tomb of Nefermaat
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I think it is, although it wasn't open and there were no signs.

Giza Complex

 

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Pyramid of Menkaure

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The Sphinx

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The body of the Sphinx, almost 60m long and 20m high, was carved from alternate soft and hard layers of sediments of marly limestone laid down during the formation of the Giza plateau in the geological Eocene period. .

 

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The harder layers were quarried, blocks extracted for Old Kingdom building projects and it is now possible to identify the stone used in each of the nearby structures, providing evidence of the sequence of quarrying. The walls of Khafre's valley temple were probably composed of massive blocks from the upper part of the Sphinx's body, while some of the limestone blocks of the Sphinx Temple came from an area around the Sphinx's chest.

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The head of the Sphinx represents an Egyptian ruler wearing a nemes head-dress and once had a uraeus-serpent on it's forehead and a royal beard (fragments exist now in museums). The human head is small in proportion to the lion's body and it is suggested that the body may have been elongated to take into account a natural fissure in the rock which would have prevented the workmen from completing the carving of the rear quarters.

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Saqqara - Step Pyramid of Djoser
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The single entrance to the enclosure is the southernmost doorway on the eastern side of the wall (the only one of the 15 doorways which is not a false door) and leads to the entrance colonnade. 

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20 pairs of engaged columns, resembling bundles of reeds or palm ribs line the corridor. Between the columns are 24 small chambers, thought perhaps to represent the nomes of Upper and Lower Egypt, which may once have contained statues of the King or deities. The roof of the entrance colonnade was constructed to represent whole tree trunks.

 
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The pyramid structure rises above the plateau in a series of six stepped 'mastabas' and was surrounded by a complex of dummy buildings enclosed within a niched limestone wall over 10m high.

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Original graffiti on tomb wall

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Step Pyramid was first constructed as a square mastaba which was enlarged and expanded in six stages, eventually becoming a 4-step mastaba and then a 6-step structure which was no longer square, but had become a rectangle oriented east-west. The limestone blocks were laid in courses which were inclined towards the centre of the pyramid.

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We also saw a couple of mastabas, which we couldn't take photos in - Mereuka's tomb (he was a vizier).


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Pyramid of Snefru (Bent Pyramid)


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 We could only get this close - the area is still a military area and we were ordered not to take any photos of the military.  This pyramid was called 'Snefru is shining in the south' and which we now know as the 'Bent Pyramid' because of its shape. It is located about 3km west of the modern village of Dahshur on the desert plateau.

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Red Pyramid
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Snefru built two large pyramids at Dahshur. His first, known as the 'Bent Pyramid', is situated to the south of the necropolis while his second monument at Dahshur is about 4km to the north and known as the 'North' or 'Red Pyramid'. The monument whose ancient name was probably 'Snefru Shines' was to be Snefru's third attempt at pyramid construction (including Meidum) - his architects now using the technical experience gained from previous structures, a reduced angle of slope and less ambitious plan. It is thought to have been begun in Snefru's 30th year of reign and dates found in builders' marks on blocks from the Red Pyramid have proved to be of great importance in giving a clear picture of the time it took to build the pyramid.

Memphis

10/09/2005 13:07:16

This statue of Rameses II is a twin to the statue erected in the centre of Midan Rameses in Cairo. The museum piece is only a fragment, but even without its lower legs it measures nearly thirteen metres and once stood with its companion outside the Temple of Ptah at Memphis.

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Memphis

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Hardly anything is left of the ancient site - and it was actually quite un-inspiring, compared to what we had seen already.

 

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Bent Pyramid


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Timings got a bit mixed up here with the photos I guess.  We actually went to the Bent and Red Pyramids after Memphis. During the construction of the pyramid the plan was changed when architects appear to have realised that the angle of slope was too steep, so at almost half way up, the inclination was reduced, effectively reducing both the projected height of the pyramid and the weight of stone in its upper courses

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Red Pyramid

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The name 'Red Pyramid' has derived from the colour of limestone used in constructing the pyramid's core - it's casing of white limestone is now completely missing.

 
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Some of the group walking up to go into the Red Pyramid
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Art at the entrance

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Panorama Hotel on Birket Qarun, Faiyum
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View from our balcony.  Lovely hotel and area but we were ordered not to leave the hotel - a bunch of crap but the tour leader was a big wuss and was afraid.

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More shots from our balcony

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Tour Leader (Richard) and Guide (Osama)

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a.k.a "Dumb and Dumber" - don't know which was more useless - actually we do - it was Osama, not only useless but ruined a large part of the trip with his crap guiding - oh and his daily bouts of "sickness" so he never finished a tour of a site practically.  Poor Rich, actually to get stuck with such a heinous guide on his 1st tour.

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Waterwheel at Faiyum town
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Actually we had an extremely LONG time looking at this, as after telling us not to stray from this/the bus and we'd only have 10 minutes, Rich and Osama disappeared for an hour and left us just standing here.

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Meidum Pyramid
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The pyramid at Meidum was constructed in steps in the manner of the old style step pyramids, first with seven steps which was amended to eight and then filled in with packing and regular courses of better quality stone to create a smooth surface.

 
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Looking up to the ceiling inside the pyramid.

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Desert meeting Faiyum Oasis
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The corbelled roof of the burial chamber projects above the bedrock in the masonry of the pyramid and looking up you can see the high corbelled walls, where there are still traces of an ancient wooden beam, perhaps intended to be used to facilitate lifting the sarcophagus.

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Angela and Liz doing their Egyptologist thing
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Angela was our resident expert, but because of stupid rules of the Egyptian authorities, she wasn't allowed to openly guide us at any of the sites - even when we figured out what a moron Osama was.  So she (and her pal Liz on a busman's holiday) stealthfully tried to give us more info whenever possible.

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Another nice hotel at El Minya, but once again were told we were not allowed out of the hotel.  Some of the group ignored Richard and went for a walk along the Nile esplanade anyway though.

Beni Hasan

12/09/2005 07:53:56

Beni Hasan is a small village, south of el-Minya, where an important group of rock-cut tombs are carved into the high limestone cliffs on the east bank of the Nile.

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The contrast of the desert meeting the Nile strip of fertile land was amazing.

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The walk up to the tombs.

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Tomb of Baqet III
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Once again, no photos allowed but click here to see some shots and info on Beni Hassan.  Thanks to this website for giving lots of info to put on this site.

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Muslim cemetery  near Beni Hasan

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The Nile - from the ferry
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El Amarna

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Akhetaten was the capital city of the Dynasty XVIII king, Akhenaten, called by some ‘the heretic king’. Akhenaten, formerly Amenhotep IV, built his city in a bay of cliffs on the east bank of the Nile as a centre for the worship of his ‘new’ religion, Atenism.

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The Palace
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Local Children
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Note the natty sun hat (piece of cardboard tied under the chin with a bit of string)

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This was the type of transport we were taken around the site, complete with armed escort (many of their machine guns scarily held together with gaffer tape).

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Temple
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Abydos
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DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:14:02


DSC00275
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:29:54


DSC00275
DSC00276
DSC00276
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:32:39


DSC00277
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:37:05


DSC00277
DSC00281
DSC00281
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:40:32


DSC00283
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:42:22


DSC00283
DSC00284
DSC00284
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:42:39


DSC00285
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:44:29


DSC00285
DSC00288
DSC00288
DSC-P200
16/09/2005 18:49:12


DSC00290
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 10:50:57


DSC00290
DSC00291
DSC00291
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 10:52:19


DSC00292
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 10:59:01


DSC00292
2005_0917_122846aa
2005_0917_122846aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
17/09/2005 12:28:46


2005_0917_122906aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
17/09/2005 12:29:06


2005_0917_122906aa
2005_0917_123804aa
2005_0917_123804aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
17/09/2005 12:38:04


DSC00293
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 14:27:37


DSC00293
DSC00294
DSC00294
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 14:36:35


DSC00295
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 14:39:15


DSC00295
DSC00296
DSC00296
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 14:40:26


DSC00298
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 15:12:54


DSC00298
DSC00299
DSC00299
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 15:23:36


DSC00300
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 15:27:59


DSC00300
DSC00301
DSC00301
DSC-P200
17/09/2005 17:45:47


DSC00310
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 12:54:07


DSC00310
2005_0918_135919aa
2005_0918_135919aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 13:59:19


2005_0918_140225aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:02:25


2005_0918_140225aa
2005_0918_140630aa
2005_0918_140630aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:06:30


2005_0918_140730aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:07:30


2005_0918_140730aa
2005_0918_141249aa
2005_0918_141249aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:12:49


2005_0918_141326aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:13:26


2005_0918_141326aa
2005_0918_142716aa
2005_0918_142716aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:27:16


2005_0918_143426aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 14:34:26


2005_0918_143426aa
2005_0918_152056aa
2005_0918_152056aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 15:20:56


2005_0918_152508aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
18/09/2005 15:25:08


2005_0918_152508aa
DSC00311
DSC00311
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 15:57:48


DSC00312
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:05:03


DSC00312
DSC00313
DSC00313
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:10:16


DSC00314
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:11:50


DSC00314
DSC00315
DSC00315
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:12:45


DSC00316
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:16:29


DSC00316
DSC00317
DSC00317
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:22:51


DSC00318
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:30:40


DSC00318
DSC00319
DSC00319
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:34:13


DSC00321
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:47:01


DSC00321
DSC00322
DSC00322
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 16:53:46


DSC00323
DSC-P200
18/09/2005 17:23:54


DSC00323
DSC00325
DSC00325
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 07:25:11


DSC00326
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 07:25:15


DSC00326
DSC00327
DSC00327
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 07:45:29


2005_0919_080509aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 08:05:09


2005_0919_080509aa
2005_0919_080523aa
2005_0919_080523aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 08:05:23


2005_0919_090012aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 09:00:12


2005_0919_090012aa
2005_0919_090141aa
2005_0919_090141aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 09:01:41


2005_0919_094709aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 09:47:09


2005_0919_094709aa
2005_0919_095754aa
2005_0919_095754aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 09:57:54


DSC00328
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 10:02:03


DSC00328
DSC00329
DSC00329
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 10:03:13


DSC00330
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 10:03:23


DSC00330
2005_0919_100604aa
2005_0919_100604aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
19/09/2005 10:06:04


DSC00331
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:18:45


DSC00331
DSC00332
DSC00332
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:37:45


DSC00333
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:44:53


DSC00333
DSC00334
DSC00334
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:46:21


DSC00335
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:55:54


DSC00335
DSC00336
DSC00336
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:57:07


DSC00337
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 11:58:45


DSC00337
DSC00338
DSC00338
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 12:00:57


DSC00339
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 12:02:16


DSC00339
DSC00340
DSC00340
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 12:05:21


DSC00341
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 12:07:24


DSC00341
DSC00342
DSC00342
DSC-P200
19/09/2005 12:13:12


2005_0920_044458aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 04:44:58


2005_0920_044458aa
DSC00344
DSC00344
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:13:41


DSC00349
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:24:06


DSC00349
DSC00350
DSC00350
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:25:11


DSC00351
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:27:38


DSC00351
DSC00352
DSC00352
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:29:50


DSC00353
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:30:09


DSC00353
DSC00355
DSC00355
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:32:12


DSC00358
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:32:54


DSC00358
DSC00360
DSC00360
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:36:24


DSC00361
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:37:07


DSC00361
DSC00363
DSC00363
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:37:48


DSC00365
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:38:46


DSC00365
DSC00367
DSC00367
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:39:13


DSC00368
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:39:28


DSC00368
DSC00369
DSC00369
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:39:52


DSC00370
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:40:42


DSC00370
DSC00372
DSC00372
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:42:03


DSC00374
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:42:30


DSC00374
DSC00375
DSC00375
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:44:15


DSC00377
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:46:50


DSC00377
DSC00378
DSC00378
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:47:23


DSC00379
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 06:49:41


DSC00379
2005_0920_072434aa
2005_0920_072434aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 07:24:34


2005_0920_072611aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 07:26:11


2005_0920_072611aa
2005_0920_072649aa
2005_0920_072649aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 07:26:49


2005_0920_073135aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 07:31:35


2005_0920_073135aa
2005_0920_074004aa
2005_0920_074004aa
FinePix2800ZOOM
20/09/2005 07:40:04


DSC00382
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:37:07


DSC00382
DSC00385
DSC00385
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:44:17


DSC00387
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:45:18


DSC00387
DSC00388
DSC00388
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:45:44


DSC00389
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:47:51


DSC00389
DSC00390
DSC00390
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:50:02


DSC00391
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:52:53


DSC00391
DSC00392
DSC00392
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 08:53:12


DSC00393
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:03:21


DSC00393
DSC00394
DSC00394
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:20:00


DSC00395
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:30:46


DSC00395
DSC00396
DSC00396
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:32:28


DSC00398
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:35:29


DSC00398
DSC00399
DSC00399
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:39:08


DSC00401
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:56:00


DSC00401
DSC00403
DSC00403
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 09:58:39


DSC00404
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 10:28:36


DSC00404
DSC00405
DSC00405
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 10:28:55


DSC00406
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 10:29:17


DSC00406
DSC00407
DSC00407
DSC-P200
20/09/2005 11:18:30


DSC00408
DSC-P200
21/09/2005 05:39:57


DSC00408